Over the last decade or so, the self-styled Land of Smiles has grown from being mainly a backpacker preserve to become one of Asia's most popular tourist and business playgrounds. From its thrilling capital, Bangkok, through to the epic white sands of some of the world's most beautiful beaches, Thailand manages to cater for many diverse tastes. The difference is today that the elephant treks through the jungle and days spent on palm fringed beaches end more often than not in a sumptuous hotel or spa resort rather than a 'dollar-a-night' beach hut.

Most Thais refer to the capital as 'Krung Thep', the shortened Thai name of a city that actually consists of 32 different words, a fittingly impressive number of monikers for a capital that is one of the world's most eclectic and thrilling. Bangkok is to Thailand what London is to England: the metropole, the hub of business, economic and political affairs. The rapid pace of change and the increasing prosperity that gives the city much of its vibrancy have also caused some problems, with widely reported nightmare traffic congestion and pollution. Over the last few years, the opening of a slick new overland metropolitan railway that enables visitors to glide over the chaotic scenes below, coupled with the cheap and frequent river boats and the reasonably priced air-conditioned taxis, have improved the situation markedly. Through the city flows the Chao Phraya River, on the banks of which can be found some of the best hotels in Bangkok. It is also where visitors will find the Grand Palace which, covering a huge area, is one of the major sites. Here also is Wat Phra Kaeo, a temple complex which houses the Emerald Buddha. This Buddha statue is not covered in emeralds, as the name suggests, but is made of translucent green jade. Upriver from the Grand Palace are the Royal Barges. These richly ornamented barges are still used today for special processions on the Chao Phraya. Within the city limits is a wealth of over 300 Buddhist temple and shrines. Most famous are Wat Benchamabophit (Marble Temple), Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) and Wat Trimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha). One of the largest temple complexes in the country is Wat Pho. Altogether, there are over 30 individual temples scattered here, of which the Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the largest. The Buddha's statue is enormous, an amazing 47.5m (156ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. The gardens surrounding the temples offer an escape from the hectic pace of the big city. The temple also houses the national school for traditional Thai massage. The Floating Market is an interesting place to visit, although it has become more of a tourist attraction than a genuine market for Thais. Other sights include Lak Muang (the city stone), the Erawan Shrine, where local offerings are made daily, and the National Museum. Housed in the Suan Pakkard Palace is a collection of precious antiques. Also interesting is the former home of the American silk-dealer Jim Thompson who vanished without a trace in 1967. Today, the house is a craft museum with a shop selling high-quality silks at reasonable prices. Bangkok's burgeoning nightlife is also a major attraction. The ubiquitous 'girlie bars' of Patpong are notorious, though these days they are tourist friendly, and, beyond these dens, there are new designer bars and slick modern nightclubs, as well as some of the best restaurants in Asia.

Upriver is the old capital of Ayutthaya and the old summer palace at Bang Pa-In. Within its confines are striking structures such as a classic Thai pavilion, a neoclassical palace, a Chinese-style pagoda and a Buddhist temple that resembles a Gothic church. East of Bangkok lies the Ancient City, a vast private park with models, some full sized, some reduced, of most of Thailand's historic monuments and the temple ruins of the Khmer Empire, situated near the Cambodian border. Also just outside the city is the Rose Garden Country Resort with daily performances of Thai music, dance, games and ceremonies.