Introduction
The landscape of Bali, ‘Island of the Gods’, is made up of volcanic mountains, lakes and rivers, terraced ricefields, giant banyans and palm groves and, on the coast, bays ringed with white sandy beaches. The island lies a short distance from the eastern coast of Java, across the Strait of Bali. Although its total area is only 2095 sq km (1309 sq miles), the island supports a population of approximately 2.5 million. Unlike the rest of Indonesia, the predominant religious faith is Hinduism, though in a special form known as ‘Agama-Hindu’. Stretching east to west across the island is a volcanic chain of mountains, dominated by the mighty Gunung Agung (Holy Mountain) whose conical peak soars more than 3170m (10,400ft) into the sky. North of the mountains, where the fertility of the terrain permits, is an area devoted to the production of vegetables and copra. The fertile rice-growing region lies on the central plains.
The tourist areas are in the south, around Sanur Beach and at Kuta, which lies on the other side of a narrow isthmus. Nearby Nusa Dusa is also a popular tourist area and has a number of reasonably priced resorts and hotels.
The island has thousands of temples – the exact number has never been counted – ranging from the great ‘Holy Temple’ at Besakih to small village places of worship. Of the many festivals, most are held twice a year and involve splendid processions, dances and daily offerings of food and flowers made to the gods. Cremations are also held in great style, though their cost is often almost prohibitive for the average Balinese family.
Denpasar is the island’s capital. Sights include the Museum, a new art centre and the internationally recognised Konservatori Kerawitan, one of the major centres of Balinese dancing. The Sea Temple of Tanah Lot on the west coast (a short drive from Kediri) is one of the most breathtaking sights of Bali. Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave) near Bedulu is a huge cavern with an entrance carved in a fantastic design of demonical shapes, animals and plants, crowned by a monstrous gargoyle-like head. The Holy Springs of Tampaksiring are believed to possess curative properties and attract thousands of visitors each year. Serangan Island is also known as Turtle Island because of the turtles kept there in special pens. The island lies south of Sanur and can be reached by sail boat or, at low tide, on foot. Every six months, the island becomes the scene of a great thanksgiving ceremony in which tens of thousands take part.
The sacred monkey forest at Sangeh is a forest reserve which, as well as being the home of a variety of exotic apes, also has a temple. Penelokan is a splendid vantage point for views of the black lava streams from Mount Batur. It is also possible to sail across the nearby Lake Batur to Trunyan for a closer look at the crater. North of Kintamani, at an altitude of 1745m (5725ft), lies the highest temple on the island, Penulisan. Pura Besakih, a temple which dates back originally to the 10th century, stands high on the volcanic slopes of Gunung Agung. Nowadays, it is a massive complex of more than 30 temples, and the setting for great ceremonial splendour on festival days. Padangbai is a beautiful tropical coastal village, where lush vegetation backs a curving stretch of white, sandy beach. It is also the island’s port of call for giant cruise liners. Goa Lawah lives up to its name (‘bat cave’ in the local tongue), a safe and holy haven for thousands of bats which line every inch of space on its walls and roof. Non bat-lovers should avoid moonlight strolls in the area, as the animals leave for food sorties at night. Kusambe is a fishing village with a black sand beach. Lake Bratan is reached via a winding road from Budugul. The shimmering cool beauty of the lake and its pine-forested hillsides is an unusual sight in a tropical landscape.
The village of Ubud is the centre of Bali’s considerable art colony and contains the galleries of the most successful painters, including those of artists of foreign extraction who have settled on the island. Set in a hilltop garden is the Museam Puri Lukistan (Palace of Fine Arts) with its fine display of sculpture and paintings in both old and contemporary styles. Kamasan, near Klungkung, is another centre, but the painting style of the artists is predominantly wayang (highly stylised). Other artistic centres include Celuk (gold and silver working), Denpasar (woodworking and painting) and Batubulan (stone carving).
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